The point of this roadtrip has been to drive some lesser traveled roads in the West. So even though I did plan a few stops for sightseeing, the main point was the drive. But sometimes when you are just driving — especially on the older highways of America — you run across the most wonderful things. I found one of those things on old US 93, my second long haul drive through Nevada. I’d gotten an early start and was hoping to encounter at least some of the antelope and free range cattle all the road signs are warning me about. As I drove through endless empty miles of sagebrush and bunchgrass, I was thinking that this area must have been teeming with herds of animals at one time. They would have been able to run for miles on the plains then retreat back to the foothills all around when the sun got too hot. So why haven’t I seen anything other than a few specks off in the distance which could have been anything — antelope, cattle or just rocks.
Suddenly I saw a whole lot of larger specks moving in a such a big group that they were kicking up huge clouds of dust. Convinced I was seeing some sort of migration, I searched for a pullout so I could get out my telephoto lens to view them. Then I saw this:
And as I started taking pictures, sure enough, out from the lodge behind me came an Indian. A Seminole-Cherokee named Travis Jackson, who is the caretaker for the property. Turns out, this is the Mustang Monument, a wild horse sanctuary started by the wife of T. Boone Pickens. Seems Madeleine Pickens has bought this 550,000 acre tract of land right up to Spruce Mountain and is fighting to save America’s Mustangs. Travis offered to give Lucy and me the full tour, so we hopped in the ATV and took off.
Which brings me to those teepees. They are actually eco-friendly lodging which will be a later phase of the Mustang Monument and offer the public a chance to get up close and personal with Mustangs. The website tells all about it. But Travis says this phase of the project is further down the road. The goal now is to save as many Mustangs as possible. But let’s just peek into those teepees. Because they are pretty tricked out.
I should ‘fess up that it was in this teepee that Lucy discovered a rawhide chew owned by Madeleine Pickens’ Dachshund. And she stole it! Sorry Madeleine. Sorry Dachshund Pickens.
From Mustang habitat, we raced onward toward the moon. More specifically, the Craters of the Moon National Monument. These three lava fields in Idaho were created by a 52 mile long tear in the earth’s crust known as the Great Rift . The lava eruptions started 15,000 years ago with the most recent occurring 2000 years ago and geologists say it could erupt again. So lunar is the lava-created landscape that the early Apollo astronauts were brought here to train for their moonwalk. It was eerie to read — in the one nanosecond that I was able to get cell and Internet service since I left Elko — that Neil Armstrong had just died.
Even eerier, the smoke from the massive wildfires that are burning all through the West was being blown in on hot dry cinder-smelling winds. It made for a strange ambiance, but for extremely bad pictures. Everything looks over exposed due to the haze that kept visibility to about two miles.
It should be noted that Lucy and I have two more odd connections with the park. One of the first to chart the Craters of the Moon was an amateur explorer who took his terrier along with him. After three days, he realized his mistake as the dog’s feet were worn and bleeding. Luckily, the park now features great paths — many of them wheelchair accessible — that take you to the best sights and protect the fragile cinders. Oh, and my distant relative, Calvin Coolidge, was the President who designated the area a National Monument with a backhanded compliment calling it “a weird and scenic landscape peculiar to itself”.
Maybe that’s why Craters of the Moon is one of the least visited National Monuments. When I asked for directions from the desk clerk at our motel, she admitted she’s lived here, an hour away from it, and has never been. And she questioned whether I should make the drive: “You know you can only get there on an old highway. It’s just two lane blacktop all the way.”
Honey, you have no idea…
Today’s pictures here.
In case you are just joining us, Lucy, my Smooth Fox Terrier, and I have been doing a themed roadtrip — The Road Less Traveled — circling a section of the West on two lane highways and visiting some overlooked sights.
Catch up with posts on the pre-planning here and here and Day One, Day Two, Day Three.
Oh man those tee pees are great!
How poignant a post on the day that Neil Armstrong left this earth for the final time. I learned about it sitting in the ballpark in Cincinnati for my birthday.
Arroyo was not the pitcher yesterday. But last weekend when he was pitching against the Phils, I was able to tell my brother a little about your Arroyo connection. Figured you wouldn’t mind my taking your Dad’s spirit along to Lake Barkley. Pitched an awesome game that day, Redlegs are having a wonderful season.
Our pitcher yesterday was Mike Leake. Very young and sometimes is used as a pinch hitter. NL pitchers can often hit, but not quite on his scale most of the time. He had a double yesterday.
Those teepees are amazing. What a wonderful place. Thanks
The last comment by the motel owner is a most compelling argument for visiting this “less traveled” place. Same with Great Basin, which has the added enticement of the nearby Lectrolux Cafe. I love that you are “dining with Lucullus” and enjoying a solo glass of Pinot. Not that Lucy isn’t the best of companions, but I’m sure her taste in beverages is a bit different. Great chick trip so far!
I had heard about the Mustang Monument. How wonderful that you chanced upon it! Great photos and descriptions. Just reading all of this is making my feet itchy. Too funny about Lucy and the rawhide. Nutmeg would definitely approve!
I remember driving through Craters. It is a really weird landscape. I have a memory of roll over the top of a hill and suddenly see lush greenery and being very thankful for it.