Thanks to an upbringing as a Military Brat, plus an insatiable wanderlust, I’ve visited or lived in all but four of the fifty states. And when I say “visited”, I only count a state when I’ve traveled at least 100 miles in it, had a meal there or stayed at least one night. So my upcoming roadtrip, planned for August, is designed to knock some of the remaining four off the list. For the record, those four states are North Dakota, South Dakota, Hawaii and Wisconsin. No disrespect to my friends from Wisconsin, but I really have no interest in visiting. I’m definitely not going to do a roadtrip to Hawaii, so North and South Dakota are my destination. Of course, along with other states I’ll pass through on the way. My road trips always have a theme and I brake for all historical sites, so expect a lot of Lewis & Clark, Chief Joseph’s retreat, the Oregon Trail and Teddy Roosevelt.

Of course, I’m going to Deadwood. Because SETH BULLOCK. In fact, I’m staying in his old hotel. Which is supposed to be haunted by him. So maybe we’ll meet!
Of course, to get to North and South Dakota, I’m passing through Oregon, Idaho, Montana and Wyoming. I’m already researching all the places I want to stop there. But poor North and South Dakota? You won’t find a lot of guidebooks, websites and tourist information about them. Doesn’t anyone go there? Other than oil speculators, which by the way, are one of the reasons I’m doing this trip this year. What little I read about North Dakota in particular says it’s quickly becoming an oil-soaked, fracking-polluted wasteland of seedy trailer park gim-crack boomtown shanties and strip clubs. If I want to catch any of North Dakota’s beauty, I feel I’d better get out there and see it soon. And by the way, that goes double for Montana’s Glacier National Park. Scientists have just moved forward the date for which all the glaciers will disappear — to 2020!
So back to North and South Dakota. I’m sending out an appeal here. I need recommendations for things to see and less traveled roads to get to those sights. I’ve already planned on showing up at the expected places: the Missouri Breaks, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, the Badlands, the Black Hills, Deadwood. I’m also planning to hit some Indian reservations which will probably be heartbreaking, but which I feel I should see. I’m coming in from Montana on the High-Line, the little traveled Route 2, where it looks as if I’ll hit Fracking Central when I get to North Dakota. Again, that won’t be a pretty sight, but I feel I should bear witness.

I’m particularly interested in the best routes from North Dakota (Roosevelt National Park) to my next stop, the Badlands of South Dakota. Here’s one possibility, which swings a little out of the way, but leads through several Indian Reservations.
So again, I’m asking, what should I see, what shouldn’t I miss, where should I eat? Just a word of warning: don’t send me to anything to do with Laura Ingalls Wilder. I know this disqualifies me from proper American girlhood, but I couldn’t stand those books. Ditto Mount Rushmore or the Crazy Horse Memorial. If I happen to be driving past, I’ll look in. But I’m very reluctant to see desecrated sacred sites that are slaps in the face to Native peoples and to the environment. When I look at Mount Rushmore, I don’t focus on massive faces of Presidents. I see an even greater slag heap underneath from all the dynamiting. Also, don’t send me to any major cities. I have no desire to see Bismark, Fargo, Rapid City or any of the major interstates that reach them. Give me back roads, small towns and good honest diners. Oh, and I expect to eat a lot of steak, but don’t suggest Rocky Mountain Oysters. I’ve eaten grasshoppers in Oaxaca and chicken feet in Beijing, but I’m NOT eating bull balls. Period.
So c’mon, Internet Peeps, help me out here. I await your Dakota suggestions.
Photo of Theodore Roosevelt National Park Badlands by
Buffalo picture from Theodore Roosevelt National Park flicker site.
So, Kinky Friedman had this to say about South Dakota… http://www.lyricsfreak.com/k/kinky+friedman/rapid+city+south+dakota_20079431.html
Check out the Corn Palace in Mitchell, SD. I haven’t been there since I was 12 (a LONG time ago) but I was enchanted by its Moorishy-Victorian kitsch. I’m sure it’s become very touristy since then, but it is unique and has an interesting history. Mitchell is also the home of the McGovern Legacy Library, dedicated to Mitchell’s, and SD’s, favorite son, George McGovern: a true war hero and a man of courage and conviction. I’ve heard the Spearfish area is beautiful, but I haven’t been there.
Thanks, Pam. I saw the Corn Palace and considered it and I have a thing about Presidential and political libraries, but that’s much further East than I was planning to travel.
You’re already going to the place I remember best about South Dakota, the Badlands. They are weird and wonderful and truly BAD, maybe even badass. I remember being really creeped out by them, but in a fascinated way. I hope you like the Black Hills as much as I did – they really are black from a distance, and I found them to be lovely. All this was long ago, however, so I hope it hasn’t changed.
King’s Saddlery, Sheridan, Wyoming
Little Big Horn Battlefield, Montana
Into the Sun Road, Wyoming/Montana
Meadowlark Lake, Wyoming
Sturgis, South Dakota
Please approach fracking with an open mind. It’s been going on a long, long time here in Kern County. You’ll be passing through some wonderful territory. Even though we disagree on almost everything (Mt. Rushmore is another disagreement.), I really enjoy reading your adventures and points of view. I know you’ll have a grand time.
Thanks, Maybelline. I’m staying overnight in Sheridan and I read about the Saddlery. The Going to the Sun Road is in Glacier National Park and I’ll be driving that and hiking from it. I have a vague recollection from my childhood of being taken to the Little Bighorn battle site. If I have time and it’s on my way, I’ll swing by again. Not sure about Sturgis. Luckily, I’m arriving after that big motorcycle rally, but I’d hate to show up and have a bunch of noisy bikers,perhaps stragglers, surrounding me.
http://www.sheridaninn.com
Wall Drug!
Oh, and I know you said you don’t want to hit any major cities, but my hometown, Grand Forks, ND, was just named the best hockey town in the US
Look up Hot Springs, SD. They have a big Mammouth dig site there that was really cool to see the digging of bones. Also have a big hot springs pool. Haven’t been there for a few years though. Don’t worry about the bikers in Sturgis. Once the rally is over they usually leave. But keep in mind it’s the 75th anniversary of the rally so could be bigger crowd. Also if you are driving in North Dakota the traffic is horrific now. So just be prepared for lines of semi’s and give yourself lots of time. I’m here in Wyoming, previous comments pretty much hit the spots. There is a Medicine Wheel site you could visit, Thermopolis has a dinasour dig, hot springs, etc. Hope this helps…
Wow! Debbie, thanks so much for the tips. And bummer about the traffic. I was planning on taking the High-Line in which I was assuming would be wide open spaces and just me. Now it sounds like just me and hundreds of fracking trucks.
Thank you for your post! We are planning on heading in the same direction as you this year and I had only just begun my search of places to see. Your post got me started.
I found some detailed suggestions in the TripAdvisor forums. The South Dakota forum is a wealth of information. Also, SDakota tourism has an app, if that’s your thing. I downloaded it just now, but have only just skimmed the surface.
You’re right about ND. Not much there. But, I would like to see the Enchanted Highway in addition to what you’ve written here. I’m a sucker for public art, no matter how tacky. I want to avoid the oil fields at all costs. We recently visited Carlsbad Caverns. The Caverns were glorious. But the smell from the oil fields was overwhelming to say the least.
We’ll also re-listen to David McCullough’s ‘Mornings on Horseback’ (about TRoosevelt’s early years and the time he spent in NDakota) on our way north from San Diego. It’s a long book, but there are a lot of miles between here and Teddy Roosevelt NP. We have already listened to ‘Undaunted Courage’, by Stephen Ambrose about the Lewis & Clark expedition, but might have to listen to that one again, too. It’s all good.
I agree with you about Rushmore, but I would like to see it anyway. It has come as a shock to me to find out that I probably would not have voted for 3 of the 4 Presidents on the Mount. But, then I have to remember that I wouldn’t have been allowed to vote for any of them because Washington didn’t actually run for office and women didn’t have the vote for the other 3.
Safe travels and maybe we’ll see you on the road.